Landrover Restoration

October 9, 2008

Building the Tray - Step 1.

Filed under: Tray, Body Work — Steven Rowlandson @ 8:10 pm

Make a rectangle of 50×25x2.0 mm RHS. 
2 Lengths at 1600mm
2 Lengths at 2000mm
All cut at 45 degree angles. 
Lay out on floor, raised on some 50×20mm flat bar. Hold all angles with magnetic 90 degree clamps.Check square with set square.
Tack 2 dots oninside and outside edge with ARC welder, re check its square. 

Cut 5 ‘ribs’ from 50×25x1.6mm RHS and cut  them on a 45 degree angle. 2 x tack welds on each to check they are ’square’ Flip and square up the other side and tack 2 dots in each corner. Then weld one surface at a time in each corner, checking angles and square as we go.
Welding will be done with a Tig welder. 

October 6, 2008

Steel for tray ordered from Robot Trading

Filed under: Tray, Body Work — Steven Rowlandson @ 9:25 am

I ordered the steel for my tray today from Robot Trading,

Steel ordered:

All Steel in Primed


October 1, 2008

Building the Tray

Filed under: Body Work — Steven Rowlandson @ 7:17 am

The first step to building the tray is to come up with a design. Having never build one, nor paid particular interest in how they are built, I sort the advice of a few friends. Michael was kind enough to mock up a design for me which ‘looked the goods’.  I have sent off 2 quote requests for the steel, the first one coming back as $408 which was great as i had a budget set aside of $1000 for the tray. I have the water tank, air tank etc ready to mount under the tray once it is completed.   The basic design is: 2x 75mm ‘C’ Channel to bolt the tray to the chassis and lift the tray up off the chassis. These fle a little to avoid fatigue, apparently. 50mmx25mm RHS to become the ribs that the aluminum checker-plate will bolt to. The 2 sides are also 50×25 RHS. The roll bar behind the cab will be 40×40mm SHS with a piece of 1.6mm flat sheet folded to be the head board. Some 22mm tube will form the rope rails. The sides will be made from 25mm angle iron and wooden inserts to give it the period look. I still ‘may’ replace the checker-plate floor with timber. A decision to be made closer to completion. At this stage I don’t think i’ll fold a sheet to be the back of the tray as the lights on the Landrover are already mounted to the chassis and the tray isn’t going to overhang the chassis by more than 40mm or so.  So far Speedy Steel in Airport West is winning the race for the best, cheapest, most professional steel supplier, having my quote returned in just a few hours of email which i thought was fantastic.  

What colour?

Filed under: Uncategorized — Steven Rowlandson @ 7:12 am

The ute was originally Grey. Which, in my eyes is a little bland. My favourite of the Land Rover colours was Limestone and having a photo on hand of a LWB Trayback in limestone only confirmed my thoughts. I was recommended Standox paint, a little more expensive that other paints but gives an excellent finish. $127 for 4 Litres should see the job done. More news on this to come…  I found this photo as inspiration, this is the colour ‘Limestone’ and will be what my SIIA will look like in a weeks weeks - Touch wood!      A few links I found when researching Land Rover Paint:

    NCJ Limestone 59-84 LRC.007

Paint Colors

Description       Rover No.  DuPont   Ditzler  Glasurit  RM-Supermax  Unipart

Pastel Green      RTC4041A   38504*            ROV-605   RV-028Bronze Green      RTC4042A   38500*   46451    LEY-637   RV-027Marine Blue       RTC4043A   38503*   16514    ROV-504   RV-017        GAP407Limestone         RTC4044A   38505*   46251              RV-040Poppy Red                    38506*            ROV-303   RV-029Sand                         38502*Mid grey                     38501*Burnt grey                   38508*Davos white                  38514*Mexican brown                38519*Cameron green                38520*Almond yellow                38521*Sandglow “Camel Yellow” is also an old Jaguar colorSand (ACF/004 or 26291)Artic White”Detroit Diesel Alpine Green” #225, made by Tempo.*For DuPont add suffix “A” for Centari Acrylic Enamel, “L” for Laquer,or “D” for “DuLux” Alkyd Enamel.


Filed under: Electrical, Body Work — Steven Rowlandson @ 7:08 am

Well, not a lot has happened in the last few weeks. The Original motor was stripped down and it is very worn. The body is back together and all in primer awaiting paint, i’ll leave that to a separate post. It won’t be long now until everything is completed. Next phase is paint the whole cab in colour, build and fit the tray and finish the wiring. Last step is to fit the shocks, new tyres and adjust up the brakes. 

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