Landrover Restoration

October 9, 2008

Building the Tray - Step 1.

Filed under: Tray, Body Work — Steven Rowlandson @ 8:10 pm

Make a rectangle of 50×25x2.0 mm RHS. 
2 Lengths at 1600mm
2 Lengths at 2000mm
All cut at 45 degree angles. 
Lay out on floor, raised on some 50×20mm flat bar. Hold all angles with magnetic 90 degree clamps.Check square with set square.
Tack 2 dots oninside and outside edge with ARC welder, re check its square. 

Cut 5 ‘ribs’ from 50×25x1.6mm RHS and cut  them on a 45 degree angle. 2 x tack welds on each to check they are ’square’ Flip and square up the other side and tack 2 dots in each corner. Then weld one surface at a time in each corner, checking angles and square as we go.
Welding will be done with a Tig welder. 

October 6, 2008

Steel for tray ordered from Robot Trading

Filed under: Tray, Body Work — Steven Rowlandson @ 9:25 am

I ordered the steel for my tray today from Robot Trading,

Steel ordered:

All Steel in Primed


October 1, 2008

Building the Tray

Filed under: Body Work — Steven Rowlandson @ 7:17 am

The first step to building the tray is to come up with a design. Having never build one, nor paid particular interest in how they are built, I sort the advice of a few friends. Michael was kind enough to mock up a design for me which ‘looked the goods’.  I have sent off 2 quote requests for the steel, the first one coming back as $408 which was great as i had a budget set aside of $1000 for the tray. I have the water tank, air tank etc ready to mount under the tray once it is completed.   The basic design is: 2x 75mm ‘C’ Channel to bolt the tray to the chassis and lift the tray up off the chassis. These fle a little to avoid fatigue, apparently. 50mmx25mm RHS to become the ribs that the aluminum checker-plate will bolt to. The 2 sides are also 50×25 RHS. The roll bar behind the cab will be 40×40mm SHS with a piece of 1.6mm flat sheet folded to be the head board. Some 22mm tube will form the rope rails. The sides will be made from 25mm angle iron and wooden inserts to give it the period look. I still ‘may’ replace the checker-plate floor with timber. A decision to be made closer to completion. At this stage I don’t think i’ll fold a sheet to be the back of the tray as the lights on the Landrover are already mounted to the chassis and the tray isn’t going to overhang the chassis by more than 40mm or so.  So far Speedy Steel in Airport West is winning the race for the best, cheapest, most professional steel supplier, having my quote returned in just a few hours of email which i thought was fantastic.  


Filed under: Electrical, Body Work — Steven Rowlandson @ 7:08 am

Well, not a lot has happened in the last few weeks. The Original motor was stripped down and it is very worn. The body is back together and all in primer awaiting paint, i’ll leave that to a separate post. It won’t be long now until everything is completed. Next phase is paint the whole cab in colour, build and fit the tray and finish the wiring. Last step is to fit the shocks, new tyres and adjust up the brakes. 

August 10, 2008


Filed under: Brakes, Electrical, Body Work, Engine — Steven Rowlandson @ 6:42 pm

Of late, a few things have progressed. The bonnet, grill and gaurds are back on and looking fantastic in Etch Primer. The doors are back and also in Primer. I have fitted a new fan belt, Fuel Filler Hose, Radiator hoses, new Exide Extreme Battery, new starter button and coil to distributor lead. All the brake lines have been replaced with new pipe and fittings as well as new flexible hoses fort he rear and front. New Clutch slave cylinder was also fitted thanks to Rover Parts and the Landrover now fires up and drives (and stops!) .  All the rear lights are fitted and the wiring has been replaced. Now I just have to connect the wiring in the dash and sort out the years of butchered spliced wires. Next steps will be paint the roof in Etch primer then the whole car in original Limestone. The Tray is all designed and the steel will be ordered and welded up to make a new steel tray with aluminium checkerplate floor.I have stripped the original motor  and will start to slowly rebuild it to put back in the landrover shortly.

May 4, 2008

Time for some fabrications

Filed under: Electrical, Body Work — Steven Rowlandson @ 3:56 pm

With litle progress over the last few months, it was time to get the ball rolling. I picked up some 5mm x 50mm bar to fabricate up some new bumper mounts which had badly rusted and needed repair. The Bar would also patch a small section of the chassis that had some rust holes that proved to be more cancer than a few holes. A sheet of 2mm plate was also acquired to fabricate some new light mounts for the rear of the tray. This proved much easy than I thought. Now I am the first to achknowledge my welding skills are terrible and steel skills equally as bad, but with some new tools I thought I’d give it a go. The Light mounts were simply traced from the pattern of the old tin ones. These are quite battered and bruised. Once traced I centre punched the holes and preceeded to drill the pilot holes, uping the drill bit in size. A 22mm Hole saw cut the holes for the ‘guts’ of the lights to hang through. I don’t have a jigsaw to cut the rounded corners so careful for with the angle grinder, then die grinder managed to cut them to shape and round them off nicely. Some work on the hand file and emery paper managed to clean them up to be quite presentable. Overall, a job done nicely (i think anyways.) Now to clean them up and paint them Chassis Black, mount the lights and bolt them to the chassis.  

February 4, 2008

Broke a new gearbox mount - bummer

Filed under: Gearbox, Body Work, Engine — Steven Rowlandson @ 8:17 pm

Well, having attempt 4 of putting the engine in, i nearly got it, the bottom had about a 1 inch gap and the top was going well, I had a trolley jack under the gearbox lifting the front of it up a tad and the engine crane trying to angle the engine ‘just right’. Unfortunately, it was just out, and BANG, the gearbox mount I had put in earlier torn. I have ordered another and will be extra careful next time. Another blow was the 3 1/2″ UNC threaded bolts I picked up for the sole purpose of using to wind the engine into the gearbox have now got stripped heads from hitting them with the air impact gun when they were not properly aligned. Double Bummer, as I will have to remove them with the vice grips - slow and steady! Another trip to the Metric Men in Keilor Park Dr Tullamarine on Saturday for 4 more bolts. After my frustration, i did manage to paint up a spring pack and also the underside of the drivers floor, the new rear diff housing and the chassis under the passenger compartment with Chassis Black - all looking the goods now and I should have the rear suspension back in within the next few nights, just awaiting on the new U Bolts and nuts to arrive (From of course)(its much easier to put things together with new bolts - which will be my theory with everything I put together - ALWAYS USE NEW BOLTS THEY ARE CHEAP! 

January 29, 2008

Clutch pedal assembly and master cylinder

Filed under: Body Work — Steven Rowlandson @ 8:08 pm

I bought a kit from to rebuild the clutch master cylinder, simple task, took about 20 minutes to fit and rebuild. Painted up the pedal assembly ready for refit.  

Air cleaner all painted

Filed under: Body Work — Steven Rowlandson @ 8:06 pm

Air cleaner is painted clean and ready for re fitting.  


Filed under: Body Work, Engine — Steven Rowlandson @ 5:27 pm

Well, no update for a while but it was due to nothing happening on the Landrover. Since the last update, I have purchased a full set of lights (2 park, 4 Turning (amber) and 2 stop tail) lights for, as well as a new fuse box, and workshop manual. Very helpful and friendly service from Rover Parts, and I have since used them again to grab 2 gearbox mounts which I managed to break whilst trying to put the replacement engine in. Once these arrive I will hopefully get the new engine in and running. I have also rebuilt the clutch and brake master cylinders and managed to paint all the floor components only having to remove them from the car again to fit the engine. It will be good to get the cab back together.   Photos of the parts / progress Lights, Manuel , Fuse Box wFreshly painted Chassis   

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