Landrover Restoration

Today I received my Catalogue frm www.landrovers.com.au and my PDF Catalogue on CD Rom. I now have a long shopping list if some basic items I require / want. Some I am replacing parts htat look ‘bad’ other I can live without, but this is generally the wish list.

Tonight, the Passenger guard was finally removed. It wasn’t as bad as I thought and had about 6 7/16th bolts and4 14mm very course thread bolts holding it on.

I started the drivers side but ended up with 5 bolts that were rusted solid, requiring the work of a nut breaker or angle grinder. Tomorrow nights job

Some photos of tonight:

More Photos here

Managed to get the roof off by unbolting the back wall and undoing the wndscreen butterfly nuts. The Roof is now off

The floor is now completely out, havng to unbolt the clutch and brake pedals. Unfortunately the brake line won’t unbolt frmo the master cylinder

I have undone the bolts mounting the back wall to the chassis, 3 stubborn bolts hold it in place.

More unbolting of the radiator surround has it about 80% out.

Some pictures from today:
Click here for the photos.

Today I decided I was sick of undoing bolts. The 240V Compressor was still not working, so I fired up the trusty Bushranger Max Air and plumbed it into an Arlec 18 litre tank and my 9 litre Fire Extinguisher Tank. Once filled, i hooked up the Super Cheap Air Ratchet and we made short work of the 15 odd 7/16″ seat mounting bolts (all quite easy to undo).

I also managed to finish grinding the floor mount bolts and get the floor out. The gearbox was coated in a nice greasy film keeping rust free!!

More photos here

So far we have spent:

$400 Purchase of the vehicle.

Budgeted and awaiting payment / Pickup
$50 Spare Front Axle
$50 Spare Rear Axle
$200 spare 2.25 Petrol Engine

Required:
Full set of rubber for body shell
All lights
New Tyres
Clutch and Clutch Master Cylinder
New Tray
New Inner Guard
New Floor Screws
New Door Tops (Driver and Passenger)
The list goes on.

Tonight I spent 45 mins on the inner guard and passenger floor.

The Floor was relatively easy, mainly due to most of the nuts being rusted solid requiring the work of the angle grinder. The inner guard was unbolted although severe rust will require a replacement rather than repair.

The drivers floor is hanging on by 3 bolts that are just about out.

The drivers door top looked ok, until i realised the handy work of a fibreglass skin, once removed exposing rust far worse than the passenger side.

Photos from tonight:
Floor Pan
Badly Rusted Drivers Door Top
Passenger Footwell rust
Passenger Footwell rust (From inside Wheel Arch)
Passenger Footwell rust (From inside Wheel Arch)
Passenger Inner Guard
Passenger Floor - Removed
Inner Guard
Dodgy Fibreglassing over Door top
Passenger Floor Pan Removed

Full Photogallery here

It seems one of hte the best ranges of parts are local in melbourne. http://www.landrovers.com.au offer a full range of parts and spares and the majority of what I need are available. Looks like a lot of our cash is going their way over the next few months.

Plugging in the Vin / Chassis number @ http://www.clifton.nl/index.html?calvin.html gives us some info on the Landrover!

The chassis number is found under the passenger rear spring hanger or on the plate in the cab.

Mine 25311853B 

Another few hours have been spent in the garage working on the landrover. I managed to get the towbar off and ther rear lights.

The towbar was VERY difficult to remove, the rust and time had siezed the 15/16 bolts very tight. Breakerbar + Handwinch bar was used to extract them. The Rear lights had to have their bolts cut with the grinder unfortunately as the screws were seized. At some stage the wiring has shorted out to the rear of the vehicle as there is a fried wire and plastic sheath oozing from the chassis at some points, which means we might have to replace the loom to the rear of the vehicle

One shock was removed, and I thought it was too good to be true when trying the drivers side, this bugger is tight and will require a second pair of hands.

I also attempted to fix the rear light protcetor bar by welding it up, not bad for my first weld in 2 years, but will need the tidy up of a pro I think!

Photo’s of the day:

More photos here

Engine Number
Body Serial and Chassis number!